Birdwatching in Islay, Scotland

Ordnance Survey Landranger maps for this area:

No. 60.


This information (which is copyright, and published here with the author's permission) comes from Malcolm Ogilvie's booklet 'The Birds of Islay' which includes site maps, descriptions of the main habitats on the island and a full systematic list with brief details of status. It can be obtained from Malcolm at Glencairn, Bruichladdich, Isle of Islay, PA49 7UN, price £4.30 including p&p.

Loch Indaal - Bowmore to Port Charlotte,


Loch Indaal offers good viewing for the birdwatcher in a car as well as easy walking. The following places mostly allow a car to park off the road. BE VERY CAREFUL if stopping elsewhere, the road is full of blind bends. Obviously the state of the tide is important as, when it is right out, waders in particular can be a long way off. At high tide, they often roost on the edge of the saltmarsh. However, this only applies to the head of the loch as the shores either side of Bowmore and from Glenburn to Bruichladdich are equally good regardless of the tide. The seaducks and other birds on the water seem little affected by the tide state.

Bowmore south to Gartbreck

This stretch can be overlooked from the unclassified lane that runs south out of Bowmore to the council tip but only at a distance. A track leads from beside the school playing fields down to the shore and one can then walk south to Gartbreck. Typical species: winter geese in the fields; gulls, including Glaucous and Iceland, at the tip; Shelduck, Wigeon, Mallard, Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover between the islets and the shore; Shag, Eider and Common Seals on and around the islets.

Bowmore Pier to Generating Station

There are three good viewing places here. Bowmore Pier, the layby immediately after the last house on the left leaving the village, and the large pull-off opposite the generating station. This last is especially good because elevated. Typical species: Scaup flock and other seaducks (Common Scoter, Goldeneye, Long-tailed), divers and Slavonian Grebes; swans and Wigeon just offshore usually to the right of the Generating Station; Purple Sandpiper, Turnstone on rocks near the pier.

Gartmain

An obvious pull-off by a small bridge and opposite two bungalows. It overlooks a small burn flowing out through a promontory as well as extensive sandflats. Typical species: swans, geese, ducks, waders and gulls all come to bathe and drink. At low tide, ducks and waders will be feeding out towards the tide edge.

Bridgend Merse

The road now wriggles round the head of the loch. There is a pull-off on the first sharp right-hand bend, just after a small cottage above the road on the right. It is quite easy to turn into coming from Bowmore, much harder to get out of because of poor visibility. From here, scan the channel of the River Sorn as it runs out through the sandflats, though a telescope is needed. A high tide roost of waders is situated on the small saltmarsh islets to the left. There is a bird hide accessible down a narrow path just past the end of the cattle market and a further lay-by on the left-hand side a short distance past a couple of cottages and a private road entrance on the right. Typical species: Wigeon, Teal, Mallard, Pintail, Shoveler, Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover, Golden Plover, Grey Plover, Dunlin, Bar- tailed Godwit, Curlew; Barnacle Geese on the merse; Grey Heron on merse and on islands beside river channel.

Carnain

Turn left on to the A847 towards Bruichladdich at Bridgend village. The road runs alongside the merse but there are few stopping places and one is usually looking into the sun. Then as the road swings sharp right round a large outcrop turn off left at the end of the wall on the left- hand side. This track leads to a pair of cottages so do not block it. There is a muddy tidal pool here as well as a longer view over the sandflats at low tide. Typical species: Shelduck, Teal, Pintail, Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit, Curlew, Redshank; Barnacle Geese on the nearby grassland.

Glenburn

The road passes between rough grassland, used by Barnacle Geese in winter and nesting Lapwing and Redshank in spring and summer, then descends to the shore again at a small bridge over a burn. One can stop along this stretch quite safely. Typical species: Scaup flock often close in, with Slavonian Grebe, Wigeon, Eider; Oystercatcher, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit roost at high tide.

Blackrock

At the end of the small bay the road climbs over a small promontory. In dry conditions one can pull off on to the grass on the left beside a concrete litter bin, though great care is needed in wet weather. From here one overlooks the offshore Blackrock and the sea to either side. The sun can be a nuisance. Typical species: Common and Arctic Terns nesting on Blackrock; Shag and Cormorant perched on it; Slavonian Grebe, Scaup, Eider, Common Scoter, Red-breasted Merganser offshore.

Traigh an Luig strand

The road runs alongside the shore for the next two miles (c.3 km) of a sweeping sandy beach backed by shingle. Two-thirds of the way along is a shingle spit sticking out. This is probably the best place to pull off the road and birdwatch, while there are generally more birds to the right than there are to the left. Typical species: Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Sanderling, Bar- tailed Godwit, Curlew; Turnstone on spit and inter-tidal zone, and often well up beach on rotting seaweed; spit is regular site for Glaucous Gull; Eider and divers offshore.

Bruichladdich

After Traigh an Luig the road becomes very bendy with few stopping places but also few birds until Bruichladdich. Opposite the first group of four bungalows and one house are extensive tidal rocks with a convenient layby by the house. There are pull-offs on the shore side opposite the village shop (the Mini-Market) and the distillery. It is also possible to walk out onto the pier. Typical species: Shag, Wigeon, Eider, Ringed Plover on rocks; Purple Sandpiper, Turnstone opposite shop and distillery; all three divers and Common Scoter from pier.

Port Bhan War Memorial

This is on the shore side half a mile towards Port Charlotte. There is a pull-off on the right-hand side of the road opposite. A telescope is useful here either from the car or by standing beside the war memorial. Typical species: all three divers, Common Scoter all year; Manx Shearwater, Gannet, flocks of Guillemot and Razorbill in summer.

Port Bhan to Port Charlotte

It is possible to stop along this road and see the same species as at Port Bhan though not usually as easily.

Loch Gruinart - including RSPB Reserve, Gruinart Flats, Ardnave and Killinallan

 The greater part of the inner half of Loch Gruinart and three-quarters of the Gruinart Flats (the pastures to the south of the loch) are part of the RSPB's Loch Gruinart reserve. Please, therefore, keep to the roads in this area and do not wander over the fields. The main aim of the reserve is to provide safe and undisturbed feeding for the wintering Barnacle Geese, but it is also excellent for breeding birds of a wide variety of species which must similarly be kept free from undue disturbance. The loch virtually empties at low tide and the ducks and waders feeding on the mud become very spread out and not easy to see. At high tide, the small island in the middle is an important roost.

Gruinart Flats and RSPB Reserve

A road (the B8017) runs right across the Flats. It is single track but with ample large laybys which enable one to get superb views of the wintering geese in the fields on either side. In spring and summer the fields are full of nesting waders. The best goose viewing is from a car. Resist the temptation to get out - it only flushes the nearer geese and sometimes all of them, which spoils it for you and any other birdwatchers there. At the western end of the road is the RSPB's main farm, Aoradh, with a visitor centre in the farmyard. The centre contains an exhibition explaining the importance of the reserve and a fine viewing gallery looking out over the fields. A small hide overlooks some flooded fields to the north, reached from the lane opposite the farm entrance, signposted Ardnave. There is a small carpark opposite the path to the hide. There are regular events at the reserve depending on the time of year. Call at the Reserve or check posters in hotels and the Tourist Office for details. Typical species: Barnacle and Greenland White-fronted Geese, plus occasional Brent, Canada, Pinkfoot; Lapwing, Snipe, Redshank, Skylark breeding; Hen Harrier, Buzzard, Peregrine, Golden Eagle hunting through area; Whooper Swans in autumn. Wigeon, Teal, Pintail, Shoveler, Lapwing, Redshank, Black-headed Gulls, Snipe in the flooded fields; Chough around the derelict buildings; Corncrake in ungrazed fields and nettlebeds.

Ardnave Loch and Peninsula

The lane past the hide continues for about three miles (c.5 km) before petering out beside Ardnave Loch. The fields on either side of the lane contain geese in winter but views of Gruinart Loch are distant. Ardnave Loch often holds swans as well as a wide variety of ducks and some waders. Walk from the loch through the dunes and down to the shore of Loch Gruinart. From here one can overlook a muddy bay to the right or walk left along the shore. It is possible to walk right round the peninsula and back to Ardnave Loch via a farm track which reaches the west shore. Typical species: Little Grebe, Whooper Swan, Mute Swan, Wigeon, Teal, Mallard, Pintail, Tufted, Scaup, Goldeneye on Ardnave Loch, also Lapwing, Redshank, Snipe; Wigeon, Red-breasted Merganser, Oystercatcher, Curlew on Loch Gruinart; Arctic Tern fishing in channels; Chough, Twite, Snow Bunting among dunes, particularly where cattle being fed in winter; Barnacle Geese on pastures; Ringed Plover, Sanderling, Snow Bunting on shore of peninsula; Great Northern Diver between Ardnave Point and Nave Island. Both Gruinart and Ardnave Lochs are frequented by Otters.

East side Loch Gruinart, Craigens to Killinallan

On the far side of the Gruinart Flats from the RSPB farm, there is a turning to the left if one is coming from the farm, or to the right if coming from Bridgend. This lane runs up the east side of Loch Gruinart and gives better views than are possible on the other side. There are plenty of laybys. The lane first passes between fields much favoured by both species of geese, then crosses a cattle grid by Craigens Farm gate. Just after this there are views to the left of the mouth of the Gruinart river and, at low tide, a large expanse of sandflats much used by waders. The lane then passes a shallow freshwater pool, often dry in summer, before dropping down to run beside the shore. The small shingle island in the middle of the loch is a high tide roost for hundreds of ducks, waders and gulls and is well worth scanning, though a telescope is advisable. Further along, the shore becomes stony and birdlife is more restricted. The lane ends at a padlocked gate but the shore is accessible and the nearest small bay and rocky headlands are often productive. Grey Seals lounge on the sandbanks while Otters frequent the rocks. Typical species: Barnacle and Greenland Whitefronts in the fields; Teal, Shelduck, Grey Heron, gulls around the river mouth; Oystercatcher, Golden Plover, Grey Plover, Dunlin, Sanderling, Bar-tailed Godwit, Curlew on the sandflats; Wigeon, Teal, Mallard, Red-breasted Merganser, waders, gulls on the island; Bar-tailed Godwit, Turnstone, Arctic Tern, Grey Seal, Otter beyond the locked gate.

Bridgend Woods

 These woods are privately owned but the estate do not mind people walking through them though it is preferred if they keep to the main rides. There are several points of access. One is from the track which leads between the outbuildings of the Bridgend Hotel and the War Memorial. A short distance along it a path, which can be muddy in winter, drops down to the left into the woods. This crosses the River Sorn by a wooden footbridge and joins the main ride. Turn right along this which can be followed for about two miles (c.3 km) through the woods. Alternative access is from the A846 (Bridgend-Ballygrant) road a short distance out of Bridgend, through a gate on the right opposite the entrance to Islay House Square and a tired-looking green corrugated iron hut. This brings one to the same main ride which follows the River Sorn through the woods. Soon after crossing a bridge over the river, fork left and then left again at a cross-roads. This brings you to the Woollen Mill which is well worth a visit to see its 19th century machinery as well as its fine range of tweeds. The old bridge beside the mill is a good place to look for Dippers and Grey Wagtails. A path beside the mill follows the river bank and rejoins the main track which then continues to the East Lodge and the A846. It is possible to drive to the Woollen Mill, signposted off the Bridgend-Ballygrant road, and to walk the rides and paths from there. Typical species: Grey Heron, Buzzard, Sparrowhawk, Woodcock, Tawny Owl, Tree Pipit, Grey Wagtail, Dipper, Wren, Blackbird, Song Thrush, occasional Garden Warbler and Blackcap, Wood Warbler, Willow Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, Coal Tit, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Treecreeper, Chaffinch, Bullfinch, Siskin.

Loch Skerrols

 This is a sizeable waterbody and well sheltered by trees. The best viewing is from the lane which turns off to the left from the A846 (Bridgend-Ballygrant) road less than a mile outside Bridgend. This is not the first lane on the left, which runs beside a wood, but the second after passing a cluster of houses beside Newton School. Following the lane brings one round a sharp right-hand bend and then up a slight hill. >From the top of the rise the loch is down and to the left. All the commoner ducks occur and it is one of the lochs that hold the occasional Coot. Geese frequently use it for bathing and preening, as do swans. Typical species: Little Grebe, Whooper Swan, Mute Swan, Greenland Whitefront, Wigeon, Teal, Mallard, Pochard, Tufted Duck, Goldeneye.

Ballygrant Woods and Loch Ballygrant, Loch Allan and Lily Loch

 A track runs right through from Ballygrant to Port Askaig. The area is privately owned but walkers are allowed, though dogs must be on leads. There is parking in the villages at either end. From the middle of Ballygrant village, on the A846, take the turning to Mulindry, immediately opposite the shop, and then bear left along the private road keeping the woodland on your left. Go past the first gate on your left and enter the woodlands through the next one. The track drops down to a small dam giving excellent views of the loch. It then roughly follows the loch shore before turning away and running through mixed woods and fields for about a mile. In the middle of a conifer plantation a track leads off to the right to Loch Allan. This can be viewed from the boathouse. The main track then passes the delightful Lily Loch, well- named and backed by some fine Scots pines. The last half-mile runs through recently felled, but regenerating woodland before passing the private grounds of Dunlossit House to Port Askaig. Typical species: Red-throated Diver, Little Grebe, Grey Heron, Mute Swan, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Red-breasted Merganser, Buzzard, Sparrowhawk, Coot, Common Sandpiper, thrushes, occasional Blackcap and Garden Warbler, Wood Warbler, Coal Tit, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Treecreeper, finches, Siskin.

Bunnahabhain

 Taking the signposted lane off the A846 between Keills and Port Askaig leads one along a winding route to this distillery village. Park on the hard standing by the distillery entrance and walk along the beach northwards. This brings one to the mouth of the Bunnahabhainn river which has nice scrubby areas upstream. From here one can walk north along the coast to Rubha a'Mhail lighthouse and even, for those energetic enough and with transport at the far end, right round to Killinallan and Loch Gruinart. Typical species: Mute Swan, Eider, Red-breasted Merganser on the sea; Black Grouse, Dipper, woodland birds by river. Otters along the shore.

Loch Gorm, Machir Bay and dunes

 Loch Gorm is much the largest loch on the island but by no means the best for birds. As already explained in the section on bird habitats, it is both large and exposed so that the shoreline is prone to significant wave action and aquatic plants, which would provide food and shelter for birds, are greatly restricted. Nevertheless, it does hold some birds and can be most easily viewed from the south side where the road to Kilchoman and Machir Bay runs not far from the shore and is usefully elevated above it. There are laybys where one can pull off the road, though a telescope is almost essential. The fields around Loch Gorm are good for Greenland Whitefronts, with Sunderland and Rockside on the south side particularly favoured. There is a road junction soon after the track on the left to Rockside (signposted to the trekking centre there). The right hand turn carries on round Loch Gorm with turnings to Sanaigmore and to Loch Gruinart. Go straight on and follow the road round sharp to the left. This leads to the disused Kilchoman Church. The dunes and fields on the right are good places to see Choughs. The inland cliffs behind the church attract soaring raptors as well as being the nesting place for Fulmars, despite being over half a mile inland. Instead of turning left up to the church, carry straight on down a stony track, suitable for cars, and park on the flat grass area at the bottom. From here one can check the dunes on either side for Choughs or walk down to Machir Bay. Corncrakes can usually be heard calling in this area in the summer months. Unfortunately the beach is poor for birds, probably because excessive wave action prevents the establishment of any kind of invertebrate population. Bathing and roosting gulls and the occasional strand wader are all that can be expected though seaducks and divers do occur offshore. Typical species: Greenland White-fronted Geese in fields and on Loch Gorm, where also divers, grebes, Wigeon, Teal, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Goldeneye, Red-breasted Merganser, otter; Buzzard, Peregrine, Golden Eagle, Chough, Jackdaw around and behind church; Chough, Corncrake, gulls, Sanderling, Ringed Plover, Goldeneye, divers at Machir Bay.

The Rinns and Frenchman's Rocks

 The Rinns is the name sometimes given to the whole of the western peninsula of Islay but here taken to mean the southern half from Port Charlotte southwards. A road runs right round, starting from and returning to Port Charlotte. Continuing south from Port Charlotte village the A846 takes one through mixed farmland and rough ground with smaller fields than in much of the rest of the island. Traditional crofting, including the growing of small patches of oats, potatoes and hay just survives, as do a handful of Corncrakes for whom such farming methods are more suitable than modern silage making. Just after a substantial farm on the left-hand side of the road, about three miles (c.5 km) south of Port Charlotte, a gated track leads off to the right. This runs right across the peninsula to the road on the west side, passing through extensive young forestry plantations. It is possible to take a car along the track but it is very bumpy in places and walking is probably safer. After another mile, with views over the forestry on the right, there is a large pool on the left. This is part of a former waterfowl collection. It is no longer open to the public, despite what some guidebooks still say. The pool is well worth checking for wild ducks, though the geese there may be tame ones. The road then runs through a small glen and reaches the twin villages of Port Wemyss and Portnahaven. Turn left to Port Wemyss at the school and then right when the lane reaches the sea. There are magnificent views here of Orsay, an island complete with lighthouse, and of the fierce currents surging between it and the mainland and the neighbouring Mackenzie Island. Divers, shags and seals frequent the channels. The road wriggles round to Portnahaven, where the rocks at the harbour mouth are good for Purple Sandpipers and Turnstones. Leave the village past the church and take the first lane on the left, after about 400 yards. This takes one through crofting areas, down and round rocky headlands, before levelling out by Claddach, the last house, with room on the grass on the left to pull off. Below on a rocky headland is the experimental wavepower station. One can walk from here, respecting the various signs concerned with access, to the point overlooking Frenchman's Rocks, some stacks lying a little under half-a-mile offshore. This is the premier seawatching site on the island, with August to October probably the most productive months, though there is something to be seen throughout the year, and the early morning being the best time, before the sun moves round and gets in the way. Contining past Claddach takes one by a small loch where Red- throated Divers are sometimes seen, as well as Whooper Swans in autumn. The lane then leads back to the Portnahaven road. Turn left to continue round the Rhinns. This road winds its way through moorland and some farmland, past the end of the track back to the east coast and eventually dropping down close to the sea at Kilchiaran, where there are cliffs, a small burn and a track leading up to a hill-top holding various telecommunications masts. The road climbs back up the hill and over the spine of the Rhinns, through forestry plantations, back to Port Charlotte. Typical species: Greenland Whitefront, Corncrake, Chough in fields; Hen Harrier, Short-eared Owl hunting over forestry; divers, Shag, seals at Port Wemyss and Portnahaven; Fulmar, petrels, shearwaters, Gannet, Kittiwake, auks, all at Frenchman's Rocks, plus less frequently divers, wildfowl and waders; Peregrine, Golden Eagle, Chough on west side of Rhinns; Fulmar, Dipper, Chough at Kilchiaran; Hen Harrier, Kestrel, Short-eared Owl by road back to Port Charlotte.

Port Ellen Bay and The Oa (pronounced 'O' as in 'road')

 Port Ellen lies at the eastern side of a large bay. This can be viewed from the road leading out of the village and, at the western side, from the pleasant sandy strand of Kilnaughton Bay. This is reached by taking the turning beside Port Ellen distillery and heading for The Oa. The bay holds divers and seaducks. Continue along the narrow road on to The Oa through a mixture of farmland, rough pasture, forestry and moorland. As the road nears the sea at the far end, take the left-hand turn to Upper Killeyan and The Monument. At the second gate there is a small carpark and a footpath to The Monument, clearly visible ahead. The Monument stands above 400-foot cliffs with impressive views east to the Dun Athad promontory and Beinn Mhor. It is possible to walk the cliff tops in either direction and, with a car and driver, arrange collection at, e.g. Risabus, walking from Inerval on the south-east coast or up Glenastle from the west. Typical species: Greenland Whitefronts in fields; Buzzard, Peregrine, Golden Eagle, Rock Dove, Guillemot, Razorbill, Black Guillemot, Raven, Chough, Wheatear, Twite around cliffs.

South coast and Claggain Bay

 The A846 running east from Port Ellen takes one into a very different part of Islay, where the topography is dominated by a series of rocky ridges clothed in scrubby woodland and running parallel to the coast. The latter is rocky and interrupted by a series of small bays, the first three of which have distilleries on their shores. The hinterland is comprised of some improved farmland interspersed with rushy pastures, running quickly back into low hills covered in blanket bog and bracken with patches of scrub. There are conifer plantations at Laphroaig, some already felled. Beyond Ardbeg the road drops down to the shore at Loch an-t'Sailein, an excellent spot for Common Seals and Otters. It then runs through private woodland at Kildalton before emerging into a broad area of lowland bog on the right-hand side and birch/oak/hazel scrubby woodland on the left. Just after the turning to the Kildalton Cross (not to be missed) there is more farmland beside a small river and then the road ends at Claggain Bay, where a long shingle strand curves round a shallow bay. It is possible to walk north from here along the coast to Proaig, though beyond that the walking becomes much more rugged and not particularly interesting for birds. Inland, the landscape is dominated by Beinn Bheigeir, Islay's highest hill, rising rather gently to 1610 feet (491 m). Typical species: Grey Heron, Greenland Whitefront, Shelduck, Red- breasted Merganser, Buzzard, Redstart, thrushes, Wood Warbler, tits, Spotted Flycatcher from Port Ellen to Kildalton; Red-throated and Great Northern Divers, Red-breasted Merganser, Otter in Claggain Bay; finches, Twite at cattle feeding stations.